Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item: http://hdl.handle.net/10174/36701

Title: Tracing the biographies of textiles in the transition of medieval to modern times: Wool fabrics and brigandines from an Iberian castle
Authors: Martín Seijo, Maria
Kaal, Joeri
Oliveira, César
Portillo, Marta
Panagiotakopulu, Eva
Teira-Brión, Andrés
Oliveira, Maria
Vázquez Collazo, Santiago
Keywords: Wool cloth
Brigandine
Bast fibre
Molecular characterization
Archaeobotany
Archaeoentomology
Object biography
Issue Date: 24-Mar-2024
Publisher: ELSEVIER
Citation: María Martín Seijo, Joeri Kaal, César Oliveira, Marta Portillo, Eva Panagiotakopulu, Andrés Teira Brión, M. Conceição Oliveira, Santiago Vázquez Collazo, Tracing the biographies of textiles in the transition of medieval to modern times: Wool fabrics and brigandines from an Iberian castle, Journal of Archaeological Science, Volume 165, 2024, 105974, ISSN 0305-4403, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jas.2024.105974.
Abstract: Findings of archaeological textiles and fibres in Northern Iberia are extremely rare. The occurrence of a set of textile fragments, dated between the 14th and 16th centuries CE at the Pambre castle (Palas de Rei, Lugo, Spain) is exceptional. The original stone roof of the southeastern tower was intact. The dark, cold and moist conditions inside the tower favoured the preservation of a unique series of waterlogged textile remains. In addition, a set of pseudomorphs preserved by mineral replacement were recovered from the east edge of the north wing in the main hall of the castle. Fibres have been identified using optical and scanning electron microscopy (SEM), and they have been chemically characterised using Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectroscopy (EDX). We also performed analytical pyrolysis-GC-MS (Py-GC-MS) and thermally assisted hydrolysis and methylation (THM-GC-MS) of the wool fabrics and pseudomorphs to assess their state of degradation and the presence of chemical markers associated to the use of these textile remains. High performance liquid chromatography with diode array detection (HPLC-DAD-MS) and ultra-high performance liquid chromatography coupled to high-resolution mass spectrometry (UHPLC-HRMS/MS) analysis were applied on wool fabrics to identify the chemical markers of dyes but without success. To expand the information related to raw material identification and the technical aspects of the fabrics, further evidence such as adherences identified as opal phytoliths, seeds, and insect remains associated to wool fabrics were examined. These findings offer a unique glimpse into the clothing dated to the end of the Medieval period, and its life-cycle. Wool scraps were probably part of at least two different garments, whereas the mineralised textiles probably formed part of at least two brigandines which were made of bast fibres, flax, or hemp.
URI: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0305440324000402?dgcid=rss_sd_all
http://hdl.handle.net/10174/36701
Type: article
Appears in Collections:HERCULES - Publicações - Artigos em Revistas Internacionais Com Arbitragem Científica

Files in This Item:

File Description SizeFormat
Seijo et all.pdf41.87 MBAdobe PDFView/Open
FacebookTwitterDeliciousLinkedInDiggGoogle BookmarksMySpaceOrkut
Formato BibTex mendeley Endnote Logotipo do DeGóis 

Items in DSpace are protected by copyright, with all rights reserved, unless otherwise indicated.

 

Dspace Dspace
DSpace Software, version 1.6.2 Copyright © 2002-2008 MIT and Hewlett-Packard - Feedback
UEvora B-On Curriculum DeGois